Roc de CambesV

Wine Notes

The outstanding wine of its appellation, Roc de Cambes is made by the meticulous, eccentric and inspired François Mitjavile, who is perhaps more famous for Tertre Roteboeuf in Saint-Emilion.

Mitvajile was keen to expand his empire, but that wasn’t a feasible option in this costly part of Bordeaux, so he instead purchased a 14 hectare Merlot-dominated property in the less fashionable, and less expensive, Côte de Bourg in 1988. Named Roc de Cambes, it had similar clay-limestone soils which intrigued Mitjavile, a south-facing exposure, and ample old vines.

The winemaking here echoes that at Tertre Rôteboeuf, with fermentation in cement tanks and long ageing in new barriques. The challenge here, he declared at a recent vertical tasting at Corney & Barrow, is to achieve full ripeness while retaining freshness and elegance. In this he succeeds admirably, and even the lesser vintages at Roc de Cambes can be outstanding.

‘The 2016 Roc de Cambes was mighty impressive from barrel. Bottled in August 2018, it has retained a beguiling bouquet of perfumed red plum, blueberry, tayberry and light estuarine scents, plus a tang of a cold northern sea. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet candied opening, dark chocolate and even toffee subtly interwoven into the red fruit. The spicy finish features a healthy sprinkling of black pepper. This is an outstanding Roc de Cambes that, dare I suggest, is going to give Tertre-Rôteboeuf a run for its money’. Neal Martin – Vinous.